Red Wing 9875 (Irish Setter Limited Series)

July 25, 2017 0 Comments

Red Wing 9875 (Irish Setter Limited Series)

In the postwar years of the last century, Red Wing Shoe Company introduced a 9-inch lace-up boot for sportsmen— bird and deer hunters who spent autumn days in the woods and marshes of North America. The boot, called the Style No. 954, made use of leather tanned with the bark of sequoia trees that gave it a distinctive deep reddish-orange color known as “Oro Russet”. It was so similar to the coat of a certain breed of hunting dog that it was given the name, “Irish Setter” in the 1950 catalog and it quickly became a popular boot.

In 1952, the Irish Setter evolved further, taking on a form that has come to be synonymous with Red Wing ever since. Retaining the distinctive moc toe of the 954, the new 8-inch Style No. 877 replaced its predecessor’s heel with a wedge sole made from a white crepe rubber that promised to be quiet underfoot in the woods. This sole had been used on shoes before but the No. 877 Irish Setter was the first to use it on a tall hunting boot. In addition to its benefits for the stalking hunter, its comfort also found favor on the job site and soon the Irish Setter was seen in the factories and on the scaffolds of a growing America.

Since the 1950s, the Irish Setter changed little from its origins. A 6-inch version and a few other colors were introduced, as well as some subtle new construction techniques but otherwise it remained the same boot that was ceremonially presented to President Eisenhower in 1960. By the 1990s, the original No. 877 became simply known as the “Classic Work Boot”, while the Irish Setter name branched off for an entire family of hunting boots made by Red Wing.

A few years ago, Red Wing embarked on a project to recreate the iconic Irish Setter boot, as close to its original form as possible, for the Japanese market, where Red Wing has long enjoyed a loyal following. It was an ambitious undertaking. Red Wing dusted off old machines at the Minnesota factory, called in help from retired workers, and experimented with tanning methods that could recreate the original Oro Russet color but adhere to modern environmental practices. Finally, after three years, the boot made its debut. And now Red wing are bringing it back.

The new limited series Irish Setter appears as if out of a time machine from 1952. In addition to its matched color, which now called “Gold Russet Sequoia”, the boot has all the exacting details of its historic forebear. The “Red Wing” name is embossed on the inside quarter of the boot, the moc toe is finished with a distinctive rectangular bar-tack stitch, and the backstay chain-stitch is once again done on ancient Puritan Stitch machine, which has its origins in the 1890s. The same mahogany and sage thread of the original, the top band is double-stitched, and the laces are leather instead of Taslan. All of these features are subtle differences from our standard No. 877 Classic Work Boot but they add up to an Irish Setter that is both unique and true to its name. Finally, to finish it off, Red Wing have added the traditional woven “Irish Setter” label inside the tongue and the boots come in a box that features the original logo and text from the 1950s.

While the limited series Irish Setter boots will no doubt be coveted by collectors who want a piece of history, these are Red Wing boots after all, built for a lifetime of service. Like the faithful dog for which they’re named, they’ll come out of the box eager to head into the woods when the leaves start to fall in autumn, not afraid to get dirty.

The 9875 is exclusively available at Brund and right here in our webshop.






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Sizing

CLOTHING SIZES

For clothing sizing information, please read the description of the given product carefully.

If no sizing information is available, please do not hesitate to ask us before purchasing.

We will do our best to respond as quickly as possible.

Have a sizing question? Let us know.

HOW TO FIND YOUR BOOT SIZE

If you are shopping for a pair of Red Wing shoes or boots, the first thing to consider with regards to sizing is this:

Most Red Wing boots, like the popular Iron Ranger and the Beckman run big. Therefore we recommend sizing down half a size from your sneaker-size if you are purchasing Iron Rangers, Beckmans and most other Red Wing boots. However, the Red Wing chukkas (3140, 3141 etc.) are true to size. Therefore we recommend ordering your sneaker-size if you are purchasing chukkas.

Please read the sizing-description on each style carefully, before ordering.

Size systems

There are many shoe size systems globally, with the US, UK, European and Japanese size systems as the most common ones. The US system also has a special category for athletic shoes.

In Europe, shoe makers are supposed to follow the same shoe-size system. Note however, that sizes might differ between e.g. France and Germany. The sizes also aren't totally standardized, which means that shoes from different manufacturers might have different sizes, although they have the same measurements.

Size chart

Size charts are used to convert between different international shoe size systems. Notice that these size charts are only to be seen as guides meant to help you find your right size. Sizes and size charts may differ notably between different shoe manufacturers and brands. See the Brund shoe/boot size chart here.

Shoe last

In order to build a Goodyear Welted boot (e.g. a Red Wing boot) to an exact size and width, the boot is constructed around a shoe last.

A last is used in shoemaking to give footwear its three-dimensional shape. Resembling the human foot, the last determines toe, heel and girth dimensions for fit, style and function.   

Do notice that there is no such thing as a "normal foot" and therefore not a standard shoe last - and therefore also not a "normal shoe size". Add to that the fact that most people’s right and left feet have different measurements.

Learn about Red Wing lasts and the Anatomy of a Red Wing at www.redwingheritage.com.

Shoe width

Most shoemakers make some of their shoes in multiple widths, from narrow to extra-wide.

US width is measured as A, B, C, D, E, EE with A as the narrowest, EE as the widest and the standard width being D.

English made men’s shoes and boots are generally made in fittings E, F, G and H and these can quite simply be classified as follows:

E=  Narrow
F=  Medium
G=  Wide
H = Extra Wide

Loake uses F or G and Crockett & Jones uses E and G.

The right size

A new pair of e.g. Red Wing Heritage boots should fit comfortably tight on your foot, with enough room to freely wiggle your toes.

The full grain leather upper, leather footboard and cork midsole mold to your feet, creating an enduring and customized fit over time, with each wear.

Measuring your feet

Stand up straight on a hard surface with your heel against the wall and a piece of blank paper taped to the floor, flush against the wall beneath your foot.

Have a friend mark the longest part of your foot (referred to as heel-to-toe length) on the paper with a pen, or measure yourself if necessary. Repeat with the other foot, as right and left sizes may be different. Use a ruler to measure the heel-to-toe length you marked for each foot.

View the BRUND shoe/boot size chart here

When using the chart, take note that ”CM” is NOT your heel-to-toe length in centimeter (cm), but the official shoe size (CM) 

Guidelines

If you have a medium or standard foot and use US 9,5 in New Balance Lifestyle, you will probably use US 9 in Red Wing, Thorogood and Chippewa and UK 8,5 in Loake and Crockett & Jones.

I use US 9,5 in New Balance Lifestyle and my right foot measurement is 28,5 centimeters from heel-to-toe. My size in New Balance Performance is US 10,5.

Confused ? – then, please read from ”Size systems” again ;-)

Links

http://www.redwingheritage.com/USD/page/how-made#lasting

http://www.loake.co.uk/craftsmanship

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